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Six weeks of School in Lyon have come and gone . . .

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date:  Fri, Feb 20, 2009
subject:  J’ai fini l’école ! ! ! pour maintenent . . .
Hi Everyone,
Alors, its vendredi the 20th and I’ve finished school . . . at least for now.
It’s 2:30 pm and we’ve all made a date to meet at Pub Johnny Walsh, très francaise don’t you think? We met there last week and it’s a good hang.
Moi, Jonathan and Monika
at Pub Johnny Walsh the previous week
There was a rock band playing and I recorded just a bit simply because the lead was singing a Jack Johnson song  . . . .
Alors, highlights of school this week?
A game. Well, we just finished my last classing playing the game “Taboo.” (I had asked Marion the other day if we could.) As Jan knows, I love to play games . . . and it’s so fun to play a game and learn French at the same time.  Only bizarre thing is that a LOT of the words are American, as in internet, Mickey, etc.  I think I explained this one already . . . you say things to get the person to guess the word(s), but you can’t say certain words . . for example, I said terroiste for World Trade Towers and got buzzed!
Here we’re playing “Battle Ships.”
Cookies.  Jan sent the most delicious cookies!!!! Merci beaucoup!  A thank you card is on the way.  Many students wrote a short note in their native language.  Have fun figuring it out Jan  . . . and Katie . . . and Logan! They arrived Monday and I shared them with the school Tuesday at our “coffee” break at 10:30 am; I also gave Madame a bag.  They ALL said Merci Beaucoup!!! C’était delicieux!
Bowling.  David, a 21 year old Swiss “boy” who is at least 6’4 inches and quite handsome, and I won . . . with the whopping score of 106!! Yahoo!!
Les champions !
I was the last to bowl and it worked out perfectly . . . I remember very clearly Dad telling me to not beat boys in sports . . . and I replied, “You gotta be kiding???”  But in this instance it was absolutely perfect, especially since I’m old enough to be ALL of their mothers (expect Jean-Laurent’s, I suppose . . .)  It was lots of fun because us girls hung out on one side and the petite little Columbian girl who wasn’t going to go because she had never played before came and had a good time.
Da kids !
(I told her that I promised it would be a kick . . . she got a strike once and we all hooted and hollered for her! She’s the cute gal sitting behind the lovely lady in red.)  A good time was had by all.
BTW, there were several Brad Pitt sightings at the bowling alley while we were waiting for our turn to bowl.

The music . . . oh my goodness.  Did I ever have so much fun last night! I went to hear “Ginkgoa.” They have a website that’s simply their name, I think.  I haven’t had a chance to check it out.  I want to write an email simply about the music I heard in Lyon, but I don’t have the time right now.  Suffice it to say that last night’s music felt like being in a David Lynch film.  Red velvet draped over the cellist’s and guitar player’s chair . . . pink lights on stage, purplish flowers on the singer’s mic stand.
It  was also alot like what I imagine it would have been like to go to a club in France in the 1930’s for 1940’s. I bought their CD  . . . and shot a little rogue video (which I did EACH time I heard music; granted it’s always been dark and you’re seeing the tops of people’s heads, but at least it’s sumthin.)
 Ginkgoa in action !
Le musée.  The same one I mentioned last week but this time I went with the school group.  I ditched them on the first floor and hightailed it up the third floor to see an exhibit just of this one young woman’s art.  Sorry, but I don’t have her name on me right now . . . M. something,

WoW! I loved her style. Not everyone else did, but I did. (though many did too . . .)  Essentially she creates lots of figures of different sizes so you have the feeling of Liliputainism . . . with lots of bright colors and whimsical, fantasic settings.  Things inside of things, people inside of people.  Lots of people flowing together like tiny minnows . . . lots of globs of paint that up close look like a glob, but far away you see the 2 specks are now eyes on the little female character, dog, whatever.  Some really tiny paintings, but mostly very LARGE paintings.  I really dug her work (though not all, there were three or four that were dark and depressing.)
Now that takes some balls !

Two other musées.  The Roman . . . learned how Lyon was formed, you’ll have to look at the photos to learn . . . I took a few clandestine photos . . . also read about the PIERRE Scize.  A Pierre is a stone . . . and to think that I had the grand luck to be placed in a beautiful apartment with part of THE pierre scize in ma chambre!!!

Musée Gallo Romain . . . from Wikipedia: 
“Lyon was founded on the Fourvière hill as a Roman colony in 43 BC by Munatius Plancus, a lieutenant of Caesar, on the site of a Gaulish hill-fort settlement called Lug[o]dunon, from the Celtic god Lugus (‘Light’, cognate with Old Irish Lugh, Modern Irish Lú) and dúnon  (hill-fort). Lyon was first named Lugdunum meaning the “hill of lights” or “the hill of crows”. Lug was equated by the Romans to Mercury.”

The museum about the war (THE) war and the resistance which was based in Lyon.
There was a special exhibit with lots of old letters that soldiers who were in a stalag wrote to their sweetie back home.  One was especially sweet . . . and it was really bizarre . . . in this one little letter the author used at least 10 specific things that I learned since I’ve been in Lyon . . . needless to say, it made me feel very good to be able to read it (fairly) easily.
 Sculpting.  I’ll have to explain this one later . . .
That’s Emmanuel the teacher . . . my work in progress is the small one on the table . . . can you spot it?
Went on another bike ride on Sunday.  It was FAB.  Really, really clear but cold. I had a grand time tooling around and STILL discovering new areas, new plazas and grandes rues à Lyon.
 Now THAT’s a playground !
 I couldn’t believe that I had never “happened” upon this place before — Place des Jacobins, that is!
This I didn’t “happen” upon. I read about it and that it was too . . . well, something NOT to miss!
Kindof cool . . . kindof weird . . . 
I’m not exactly a “cat” person.
School is out for moi . . . I received a certificate stating that I participted for 6 weeks in the “intensive” (25 lessons a week) version. Jean-Laurent wrote that I have a “slight” (léger) accent anglophone and that I can talk easily without hesitation (yep, this girl can blab!). Marion wrote that I have a good basis for continuing to learn. That I can write easily and without a lot of major errors, °BUT I still have problems with comprehension (when the people parler). Yep, I do. She recommends that I continue to practice and do things like watch films, listen to the radio, read (in French) and talk French (with people who speak French . . . though I’m sure Rocket Girl would be game to participate!).
 Prof Marion’s classroom
She also told me that she recommends I take another course at some point (after I’ve continued to practice, study, etc.) to make sure I’m on track with the grammar, etc. I’ve really enjoyed being in Marion’s class. She’s a nerd like me and loves getting into the heart of difficult grammar points. We did some stuff this week that she promises us most French people don’t know . . . that most of it is really just recognized in the written form (because it’s darn tricky), but I think I was really starting to grasp the different points.
Right now my head, my brain feels like it weighs about two metric tons. It is completely and utterly F U L L . . . it’s exactly why I wanted to stay in France two more weeks after taking a course . . . to give myself some time for it all to filter down into my gut . . . (and hopefully stay for good and not pass on out!!!).  I look forward to reviewing all or at least part of what I’ve studied . . . and see how much I’ve really learned . . .
Alors, to all of you I now say au revoir.  Tonight it’s dinner with Madame, her two sons, the elder son’s wife and little nine month old baby.
Madame’s family . . . all very nice. And very French.
I read a really good memoir recently by Sarah Turnbull (a native Australian) called Almost French. In it she described how she often dined with French people (and with her husband, who is completely French) and she would be COMPLETELY ignored. Really, completely. As if she were NOT there. People would look right through her. As time went by she apparently became more and more visible. Her premise (in my humble opinion) is that the French are shy. 
Unlike Americans, they are not accustomed to meeting new people and immediately opening up completely, without reservation (like Americans tend to do).
Well, I experienced exactly what she was talking about that evening. An amazing phenomena. Really.
Then it’s off to da kine for a pint (or two) and some general joviality . . . but first I plan to look for a couple of galleries I missed as I weave my way home. And I reckon I should get back to the flat early enough to pack so that tomorrow there’s no stress. My train departs Part-Dieu at 10:30 a.m. about and I arrive in Annecy two or so hours later.
Ciao for now brown cow, love you all!!!
Susan
°It’s kind of bizarre. When I was learning German, there was a moment when I essentially heard a “click” and all of a sudden I could understand German. Granted, there were (and still are!) a lot of words to learn . . . but I could follow the conversation relatively easily. BUT to speak was really difficult.
It’s the complete opposite for me now with French. Most of the time I can speak fairly easily . . . and yes, I get caught up LOTs of time, but . . .  but to understand the  people parler-ing . . . wow, c’est vraiment dificile! Alors, I think I’m going to start at THIS very moment expecting to be easy . . . I’ll keep you posted.
bisous!
Ricardo; David; Marion, la Prof; Janine, Hugo et moi.
Au revoir !

A few more things about Lyon . . .

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date:  Tue, Feb 17, 2009

subject:  a few more things . . . .
Hi Everyone,
I thought of a few more things of note to pass on your way from that weekend past.
1)  It rained so hard that la Saône was chocolate, like the rivers in Hawaii get when it’s rained a lot.
That lasted for well over a week. There were HUGE things floating very rapidly downstream (south in this instance, though I must add that la Saône is technically not a fleuve, or is it rivière?, because it doesn’t flow to the sea . . .). Large things like trees and who knows what all else. There WERE parking lots below the road level on the Saône-level, which have yet to open because the water was so high. So maybe this is why I see more canal-type boats on le Rhone rather than on la Saône.
2) For the first time ever I took a pair of scissors to my hair and cut, and I do mean chopped! I took off a good inch all around! I’ve cut my bangs plenty of times but never something so drastic as this!
First of all, I ventured forth and cut my own hair because I noticed that Madame’s hair was considerably shorter one day than it had been the day before. I asked her about it and she said she had cut it herself. If you remember, I got the MOST-LAYERED haircut known to man a few weeks back. Alors, the other length still was too long, so I thought, What the heck? All I cut was the part that hits the shoulder. And here it seems to be the style to have your hair all different lengths (at least to my non-professional eye, Laurie), so now I fit right in!

It was incredible watching the pile of hair on the newspaper grow. (I had laid newspaper on the floor next to the very large mirror in Madame’s chamber.) Needless to say, I did this when she was away visiting her parents.

3) “n’importe quoi” = anything (at all)
4)  I went to another restaurant with the school last week. Only thing is, I was the only student to sign up! I signed up because there were only places for 4 students and this was supposedly/allegedly a restaurant where you had to make a reservation for at least a week in advance. Romy, who is the “head” of the school and all of 31 years of age, said she’d never done this before, but she wanted to go with just one student, moi. Now I don’t think it had anything to do with my magical power of persuasion or interesting personality but rather simply because she was dying to experience this restaurant. And I reckon it was on “company” time . . .
Donc . . . it was super!!
It’s called “l’ourson qui boit.” The thing that drinks is a little bitty bear. I have the card with the cute bear wearing a pink shirt and black pants holding a little green bottle (in the same shape of a wine bottle, I must add!)

The chef is Japonais. The restaurant is in France. It was the coolest combination of the two cuisines!!! I loved it!!! Alors, Michele, I got the wonderful meal I was wanting.
For entrée I had a potage of spinach with 3 large dumpling like things that were the Japonaise version of St. Jacques. There was a wonderfully lemony flavor in the soup.
For my main plat I had the poisson. I don’t know what kind of fish it was but the waitress said it came from the sea. It was also served in a bowl over soupy risotto with a wonderful lemony and mushroomy sauce. On top of the fish was what I swear (sorry Mom, it’s the only word that really fits!) were little bitty pieces of sashimi, fresh, fresh ahi. Wow!
For dessert we decided to order two different dishes and share. She LOVED the creme whatchamacallit with a caramèl sauce . . .  but not the bizarre tiramisu ala Japonaise. So I just had two bites of the pudding thing and gobbled up the other . . . imagine a small, flat round dish like the ones used for crème brulèe (but a bit deeper).  Now imagine a cream like substance covered with little green flecks which were a lot like seaweed. The crème wasn’t very deep. In just the slightest press of the spoon you discovered the “cake” part of the tirimisu. It was deliceux; but I think just a bit too weird for Romy (yes, another Romy!!! She didn’t believe me at first when I told her I had a friend at home named Romey, Romey).
We decided to pass on the café after or apertif (both before and after) since we drank an entire bottle of wine between the two of us. I’ve found that most of the French just have 2 glasses of wine with dinner . . . now what they have before, is another story. Non, not really. But what do I know, I haven’t really hung out with LOTS of French people besides by hôtesse and her friends.
Today is mardi the 17th of fevrier, my last week. The week’s activities are as follows:
mardi (aujourd’hui)  bowling
      yep, you read right! bowling! we leave in 15 minutes.
I might go to a play tonight toute seule . . . or not, I saw a poster today that looked interesting. It’s a one-man-show (it said that in English on the poster so I THINK I’m sure) and it opens tonight. It’s tonight or never if I really have the urge . . . (I didn’t.)
mercredi the 18th is dinner night at Via Toscana. Yep, Italiana. I’m going. There’s a movie Wed. too but I think I’m going to pass because I want to go to the greco-roman musée and it’s then or never (maybe Friday I could but I’d rather not leave it to my last day in Lyon).
jeudi the 19th is an organized visit to the same museum I went to last Thursday night. Remember when I told you about the Vernissage? The opening night? I want to go again.
Musée d’art contemporain de Lyon
Vendredi soir Madame has said that her oldest son of 27 years and his wife and little 9-month old baby girl are going to join us for dinner. Should be very nice! And then hopefully afterwards I’ll meet “the gang” for a sending off. I think that’s when I really find out what they think of me . . . probably the only 48 year old they’ve ever hung out with.
And then samedi I depart for Annecy . . . it feels like the place to go at this point of my life . . . T booked the hotel last night and I’m going to purchase my tickets after bowling . . .
So, for the moment I think I’m all up to date.  Today I sent off a packet to Tones with a few things including the 4MB chip with a LOT of photos . . . maybe he’ll post them, or maybe he won’t.  It might be best to wait till I return and can add captions . . .
So for now mes bons amis, au revoir, bisous et à bientôt,
Suzanne

My last Sunday à Lyon . . .

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date: Sun, Feb 15, 2009

subject: My last Sunday à Lyon . . .
Good Morning Everyone,
I’m sitting at Madame’s computer in her very large bedroom with the tall window facing la Saône on my left. The window begins at chair level and rises up at least 10 feet. To open it you turn the handle in the center and the two tall panels open towards you. There is a redish gate just outside the window made of iron with lots of nice curly-cues.
 I suppose it’s to keep you from falling out (though the other day when I was doing laundry and I opened the similarly designed though smaller window off the bathroom–it’s right next to the john–to hang my wash outside, Lily jumped up and was about to jump out of the window!!–on to the 5 or 6 lines that run parallel with the window; but I grabbed her!!!
You have to be REALLY careful not to drop your clothes when you hang the laundry. Remember, I’m several flights up!  Hopefully it would land on the neighbor’s little contraption for hanging their wash below, but if not, I’m not exactly sure how you’d get to the bottom of this tiny courtyard! I’ve already lost two clothespins . . .).

Madame left early this morning for Paris for 3 nights. She’s on a two-week holiday from work/school. She’s staying with a friend she hasn’t seen for about 10 years or so but with whom she talks regularly. Interestingly enough, this friend is German and is teaching German in Paris. According to Madame, this woman’s French is almost as good as hers (Madame’s).

—-T just called . . . I said good night and he said good morning!
It’s a beautiful day outside (though cold, maybe between 25 and 30° F, warmer than when I arrived ages ago) and I think later I’ll go out for an exploratory bike ride before and after visiting the museum about THE war. Did you know that Lyon was the most important city for the resistance? I’ve been twice in (I think this is what they are called) les traboule. They are underground passages that were used by the resistance for moving through the city, the Germans didn’t either know about them or didn’t know where they went exactly . . . they couldn’t look it up on the internet then, of course.
But for now I wanted to write a couple of emails that are in my head.
The first one’s subject line is:  Wow! Wow! and again, WOW!!!
The second one is: The most incredible weekend.
SUBJET:  Wow! Wow! and again, WOW!!!
Thursday night I passed dining with all the gang to go to a Vernissage à Musée D’Art Contemporain de Lyon. The Saturday before while exploring I deliberately went to two different galleries in the middle of the largest construction sight I’ve ever seen.
It reminded me of the no-man’s-land in Berlin that is now the hip place that it is with shopping centers très chic and hotels, etc. But this construction in the very south portion of the center of Lyon (called the “Island Lyon” in the many ads I saw) is incredibly vast. I managed to perservere (how in the heck do you spell that word??? Looked it up, perservere is an alternate spelling of persevere) and find these two galleries. I loved the first one.
The second one . . . it was cool too.
The artist is Stéphane Braconnier, 
born 1958, lives and works in Lyon.

There were an assortment of colorful chairs with these black “twigs” dressed around each one. I was told by the very nice receptionist Chloé that they represented legs. Some were more masculine, some more feminine, etc.  The artist’s name is Georges Verney-Carron. Chloè told me about the Vernissage to be held the following Thursday evening.

I thought it was going to be a talk about the art exhibit, which was opening the next day. Okay, I thought, I won’t be able to understand it all, but it’ll be a cultural experience, so I went. Boy, was I ever in for a treat.  After waiting an hour in the cold (yes, an hour. I don’t know why they didn’t open at the advertised time, but I had a pleasant time talking to a woman named Claude who works as a food expert for lunches in Lyon . . . in the schools, I believe. Remember, if I can get 50 percent on the conversation, I’m doing well! For all I know she might actually be the person who makes the mayors’–there are many in Lyon–lunches each day) I entered the museum with what was now a THRONG of people. After 3 very fine speeches on the importance of art by 3 very distinguished gentlemen, we gained admittance into the museum, for free!!! And here’s the kicker. We were allowed to take pictures for this night only. So, I took ALOT! I thought of you Dan as I looked at the perverted (though very well done!) graphic comics, and I thought of you BJ while looking at all KINDS of things. And Jocelyne, there were some really fascinating sculptures.

The exhibit is composed of 3 parts: 1) Quintet, art by Stèphane Blanquet, Masse, Gilbert Shelton, Joost Swarte and Chris Ware.  It’s all very modern and interesting.
2) N’Importe Quoi, I don’t know why it’s called nothing of importance but it was all pretty fascinating. There were works by MANY artists.
My favorite was a series of photos (maybe 20) of the same scene, a kitchen. But in each photo there was something in the foreground out of focus. It had been tossed up in the air (or perhaps dropped) and captured at the instant it was in front of the camera. Maybe I liked it best because I know how hard that is to do . . .
The third exhibit was not open. Hopefully it will be when I return with the school next week. This third area is focused on young artists . . .
I took LOTS of photos. You can look at them someday when we put the thousands (and I do mean thousands) of photos on the net.
SUBJET:  The most incredible weekend. (6.02. 09 à 8.02. 09)
After writing to you all last week Friday, I walked home in the DRENCHING rain. Along the way I stopped at a store and bought chocolate powder for making hot chocolate. It was that kind of moment.
When I got back to the apt. and removed my wet clothing, I found that my feet had been dyed blue to match my socks (which I had swiped from Dad, by the way, he gave me permission last November . . . I like wearing his socks. Now, 9 days later, my little toenails are still blue . . . :) That night I dared to venture forth and meet my new friend Monika. She’s from Switzerland and is all of 35 years old.
Monika from the back . . . we were exploring Lyon 
and discovering lots of wonderful graffiti.
We had several fun excursions together. Alas, she departed for home yesterday after 3 weeks of school. (There are lots of saying goodbyes, and hello!, here . . .  :) et :( .
Last week Friday night Monika and I decided to forego the party at “the” appartement.
(It ended up being a good idea I think, to skip the party, that is; sounds like it got rather wild because all the school got a good talking to on Monday morning, pretty classic really . . . but I don’t mind that I missed it, I’ve been there literally and metaphorically before many times . . . )
I met her at her side of the river beside la passerelle saint vincent.
We wandered uphill towards the region called Croix Rousse to hear some blues. It was great! It was a trio, female singer/guitar player who could hold her own, a male guitar player and male bass player. She had the quality of voice similar to Janice Joplin.  We stayed for over 3 hours, it was that good.
Then Saturday I read in bed until 12:30 p.m.! I just couldn’t put down the book Lisa had given me, so decided what the heck? Why not finish it? It was miserably wet and cold outside. The title?  “The Guersey Literary Potato Peel Pie Society.”  You can search online if you’d like to know about it. I’ve sent it on to Mom to read.
Looks cozy, doesn’t it? Even Lily the cat joined in the fun.

Then, after crawling out of bed, I went out into the cold (but not cruel at least!) world happy to find that it had stopped raining, well, mostly stopped. At least I wasn’t concerned about dyeing my feet again. I found a nice place for a very proper lunch of salade chevre chaud (warm goat cheese on toast and salad) and saumon avec haricot vert et riz (salmon, rice and green beans). I topped it off with a warm chocolate cake a lot like the ones I make (and love!); and then to be really proper, I had an espresso, albeit decaf. Afterwards I made it my mission to find some art galleries. They make it fairly easy with a brochure with a map of broad strokes. And as I already mentioned, I perservered and found the 2 galleries in the boonies.

Needless to say, afterwards I dug into my purse for one of the many metro/bus/tram tickets I had purchased for the long ride home.

That evening I took advantage of Madame being away and watched some Simpsons en francais with some pasta I whipped up (bow ties with spinach, garlic, butter and a slight sprinkling of Uncle Mike’s fab salt). Afterwards I climbed the hill to Croix Rousse and found yet another gallery on the main boulevard. When I stepped into the warm bar my glasses immediately fogged up. It was just as well because I found myself yet again in the world of the 20 something year olds. On another night I might have ordered a cocktail and joined the fun, but that night I chose just to check out the art as my glasses defogged, and bounce to the techno music for a bit. When I stepped outside, the cool air was actually a relief. I found a new way home and yet another view of la fourvière (elephant on its back) and Lyon’s answer to the Eiffel tower.
I began the next day (Sunday) like the previous day and finished yet another book. This one though was in French and quite basic. It was a fun read about a journalist Alex Leroc who works in Brussels . . . I’ve read 3 of these little books already. They come with a CD and I was able to have a listen since B was away visiting her parents. I plan to do the same later this evening.
Then I spent the afternoon at the theatre!!! I read about this play in the weekly journal and thought it’d be just right for me and it was. It was in a tiny theatre on the same street with loads of art galleries (rue Burdeau if you feel like checking it out on google earth).
This particular theatre is called Production Espace 44–44 for its street number. The tiny space reminded me a little of the small theatre on Kaua‘i, in that the seating was on 4 rows of benches in what felt like bleachers.  However, the benches abutted the tiny space, probably the size of our dining room straight through to the couches. The play was “Un Roi sans divertissement” (a king without distractions). The star, and lone performer, was Jean Giono, a funny little bald man with a very flexible voice. The stage was simply a table and bookshelf (sr) covered with dusty objects one might find on travels to Africa or the far east . . . The actor entered the stage, took his time taking off his hat and coat, dusted a few objects, sat down and then realized we were there . . . he then opened a portfolio and took us on a journey of a tale from long ago . . . at least that’s what I think happened. Maybe it was something all together different, but I enjoyed the ride anyway. Along the way he transformed into the different characters in the story. I especially loved it when his voice boomed into something completely different and funny . . .
I topped the experience off with a scoop of Haagen Daz (yes, HD; there’s a little shop next to Hotel De Ville).
I got a flavor I’d never seen before, very European. Chocolate with hazelnut and toffee. Yep, it was delish.
When I returned I had about 3 to 4 hours of really intense study. It was great! It was the kind where you have an objective, you meet it and get completely lost in what you’re doing. I was quite content. I was wanting to have the tenses that I’ve studied clear in my head because the next day I was starting my first week in the harder class. I did just about all I could stand and then it was 9 p.m., just the right time to go out to dinner in France . . .
Since I’d eaten my “dinner” for lunch I decided to check out the restaurant I’d noticed several weeks before and have a pizza made in a wood fire . . . and lots of conversation with the adorable waiter. Yes Tony, he was, adorable that is. Believe it or not I haven’t met that many adorable people, so I indulged in fun conversation.  Then it ended up that the chef has a little business in Honolulu (yes! honoruru!) with his brother. He proceeded to come out and chat with me for over 20 minutes. I noticed that no one was served their dinner while we spoke! Seems he and his brother have a year contract to sell French chocolates to Japon Air; it’s called Padovani’s Chocolates and is based out of the Dole Cannery area close to Sam Choy’s .  . . . and yes, he knows Sam Choy. It is indeed a small world.
Writing about all this now, I’m not sure it comes across as nice as it was for me . . .
blues with a new friend
reading in bed (with my new friends on Guernsey)
lunch out
art galleries
the simpsons
late night walk with a view
reading in bed again (this time with Alex Leroc)
followed by listening to the CD of the same
au theatre en francais
Haagen Daz
several hours of intense studying
pizzeria with fun conversation
So, now it’s time to get up off my tuff and explore Lyon.
I thank you all for being so kind and taking the time to read my rantings . . . it’s so cool to know I have so many friends literally all over the world traveling by my side . . . merci beaucoup.
à bientôt,
Susan

Big news pour moi (And, this is a LONG one ! )

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date:  Fri, Feb 6, 2009
subject:  the end of the 4th week . . . a LONG one!!!!

Greetings to you All from rainy, and I do mean RAINY!, Lyon.
It’s Friday afternoon on the 6th of February and I have now completed 4 weeks à l’école suisse de langues.
Sigh. Wow, where has the time gone?  . . . time to take a pause. My grand café crème décaféiné has just arrived!
Back to the topic at hand–time. In all honesty, it feels like I’ve been here for 3 months or more. My life has settled into a pleasant routine and life on Kaua‘i seems far, far away (yes, I know it really IS far away!):
• 6 a.m. – Get up on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays to go for a 30 minute jog along la Saône.
This I’ve done for 2 weeks now. After diving into the shopping frenzy–who could resist all the SOLDES signs everywhere?–and finding some absolutely fabulous and fun lingerie (yes, lingerie-and again, who could resist buying FRENCH lingerie on SALE in France!!!!) and noticing that my muscle tone was practically non-existent after being in Tennessee for almost 2 months and in France for 2+ weeks, or so, I decided to start an exercise program. Hence the early time to me lève!
I’ve been thoroughly enjoying jogging along la Saône. It’s quiet and dark. I’m alone with the dozen or so poor souls who are waiting at the various bus stops I pass. I get to see the top secret things like the vélo man stocking the stations with red and grey bikes, the road cleaning guys who (I think) are hosing down dog poop, and the dog walkers who loyally treat their canine pals to an early morning stroll. For 4 times now (but who’s counting,) I’ve seen Fido, Emma and Yanda’s younger sister taking a stroll and early morning pee. How that warms the heart of a dog lover like me!
• 7:10 ish – Shower in the incredible shower along an authentic rock wall with artistically placed adjoining stone.
Though I had to pass on washing my hair this morn. Yesterday as I waited and waited for the water to turn warm, I decided to just wash the “necessary” parts when lo and behold the water turned warm for an instant. I then proceeded to VERY quickly wash my hair. I had just about made it when it turned cold again.
Right about then Madame knocked on the door and said, “Susan, ATTTENTION the heat isn’t working!”
“I know,” I replied.
Ends up the heating throughout the entire apartment wasn’t working. The repair man was supposed to come by this afternoon, but when I stuck my head in around 3:30 p.m. there was no sign he had arrived. Alors, I might just have greasy hair for the weekend . . . ca va.
• 7:30 ish – Make tea and prep my lunch.
Oh my goodness!!! did I ever find the most wonderful camembert this week!!! It’s made from sheep milk. Tones, I bought the last one they had early this morn. It went off in the mail around 13h. . . . I’m sure you’re already waiting with bated breath!!!

Fix my muesli . . . though the other morning Madame was out of muesli and j’avais très faim!  So I boiled an egg and then picked up a croissant on the way to school . . I wasn’t about to eat that horrible white bread . . .

• 8 ish or so – Depart for school.
• 8:30 ish to 8:50 ish Arrive.
Depends on how I feel that morning, sometimes it’s nice just to wander a bit.
Something pleasant: a beautiful morning in Lyon
Something not so pleasant
• 9 to 12:30 – Class (with the half hour break, which starts at 10:30)
Today was Marion’s 29th birthday so besides the croissant we were treated to each Friday, we had some gâteau au chocolat that Marion made this morning and a bit of wine she brought. It was all very nice.
 
We also didn’t return to class after the break but rather stayed in the petite cafeteria to play a game, loup-gour (not sure if I have that completely right—I didn’t, it’s loup garou or werewolf in French. It’s essentially a game where 3 people are werewolves, 1 is the sorcerer, and the rest are villagers; we’re given cards which determine which part we play; it’s all TOP secret. Alors, BOTH times they voted me DEAD in the first round!!!!  Either they really like me or really hate me. I’m not going to think too hard on that one . . . both times they did not find nary a one werewolf, though BOTH times I guessed 2 of the 3. They thought I was a werewolf because . . . well, I’m not exactly sure why . . . maybe you can figure that one out for me!
• 12:30 to 13:30 – Lunch break
I chose to eat in the cafeteria (in name only, it’s simply a room for dining or hanging out in; it’s up to you to provide your own lunch) each day this week; though today I spent a good bit of the time sending off a very important package! Seems Jean-Laurent likes camembert too so I shared some with him today. (I very discreetly knocked on the door of the teachers and officer workers’ space, it’s a real no-no I think to bother them, but the times I’ve frapped on the door they haven’t minded (again, I think!) because I had a treat to share.) BTW Tones, Jean-Laurent thought it was a most excellent fromage too!
Lunch has been really fun this week hanging out with the other students. In fact, this week has been my favorite so far. It was the most “steady”. This one woman who had a big heart but was incredibly fragile and was here week numbers 2 and 3 for me, fortunately left on Monday. Without going into any detail, I’ll just say that I was very nice to her, patient, kind, listened to her stories etc. SOME! . . . but I’m very glad she left . . . nuff said. Though Torun is gone and she and I had three really fun evenings together . . .

Moi et Torun
• 13:30 to 14:15 – Conversation class
Today’s activity was a little “test” regarding what’s proper when you go to a collègue’s house for dinner. (someone who you work with but don’t know real well, not a buddy).
Here’s what I learned: taking your shoes off is considering SHOCKING and a real no-no (okay my Kaua‘i buddies, we’d flunk out right away!); you should arrive 15 minutes after the time you’ve been invited, NEVER early, and not longer than 30 minutes after; NEVER go into the kitchen, another real no-no (it might be a complete mess! and probably is); bring an ODD number of flowers as a gift (as in an odd number, not strange flowers Dan!), and they should be wrapped in pretty paper; don’t start eating until the hostess does . . . I think that was the most of it. So fortunately Marion has saved us all from committing some major faux pas!!!
• 14:15 à 15h00 – Two days a week I do an extra session with Jean-Laurent on the computer/internet for gratuit. I’ve always gotten something out of these sessions.  Sometimes it’s simply reviewing the basics, as in the present tense verbs.
• 15h00 – Each Mercredi there is a DVD to watch all together in a class room if you want.
The first one (L’Auberge espagnole) was GREAT! I definitely recommend that you watch it. It’s about a group of foreign students studying in Madrid; they’re sharing an appartement. The second film was also very good (Odette Toulemonde). It’s about a lady (qui s’appelle Odette) who adores an author, she travels to see him and have her book autographed . . . it’s a very fun story, especially for women. Then we saw (Un balle en plein coeur). It’s a very good but very sad movie about two friends in Sarajevo who have to choose different sides during the war in the 1990’s. Tony and I had already seen this one. And this past Wednesday we saw (Le coeur les hommes). It was okay. It was very difficult to understand and there were nary a subtitle. Believe me, we ALL needed subtitles!
• 15h00 – Each Thursday there’s an excursion.
I’ve been to the musée about the frères Lumière who are from Lyon. We toured their family home (a beautiful 3, or was it 4?, story home with incredibly high ceilings, and magnificent broad staircase, large rooms . . . I especially liked the “Florida” room, which they called their room for winter. There were all kinds of old film cameras to took out and lots of old movies rolling in each display room. Needless to say, it was very interesting.
One week we walked to the Parc de la Tête d’Or. I’ve been back to this park several times. It’s quite large with wide wandering boulevards and smaller meandering paths through the gardens, animal park, etc. and around the lake.
Stefan, Hugo, moi et Marie
If you want to see the video to match this shot, go to youtube. Search for l’amour Lyon. Bear in mind that this video was a hit with teenage boys.
Another week we went ice skating. I think that was my favorite by far in terms of an activity. Jean-Laurent accompanied about 6 of us. It was loads of fun, though not necessarily for Ricardo (the 26 year old Brazilian who works in advertising) who fell many, many times. Though by the end he was doing very well.
He actually showed us his bruise the next week at the rip-roaring party that Friday night in the students’ apt. It WAS rather large!!! And this was more than a week later!
 A drawing of how this area of Lyon appeared in 1550
Another week we week to see the Greco-Roman musem but got shut down because of the teachers’ strike. And then yesterday we went to the Museum of Tissues. There was a special exhibition of paper dresses, models made for making designs. They were extraordinary. There must have been at least 50 of them. They filled two large rooms bordered with displays of ancient tapestry (some we saw were from the 3rd century!! VERY old).  All the dresses were very colorful and formal, long gowns to be worn to a fancy ball, I think.
We also saw the standard display in this incredible 4-story home which was built around 1750 for a very wealthy family. They occupied the 3 bottom floors and rented out the top (where their kitchen also was).  It was similar to the Lumière’s home–large chambres, high, high ceilings and a beautiful wide staircase. The design was of a square with the private courtyard in the center.
And then once a week there is an outing (if you want) for a dinner.  I’ve already bored you with the many details of the two restaurants I went to with the group (the first week it was for fondue, and I’ve had fondue en Suisse and really didn’t care for it), so I won’t venture there again. BUT, I will tell out about this past Wednesday evening. A small group of us women (6 to be exact, 4 Suisse (one of Turkish origin and one of Albanian origin), 1 Irish young lady and moi, ages? 19, 19, 19, 35, 19, 48 in that order–I’m really enjoying hanging out with such young people!) decided to find a less expensive restaurant. Two of the four Swiss chose an Italian restaurant. It was perfect.
Two of us had a pizza (moi-champignon, fromage avec un oef, I loved eating an egg on a pizza! Janine-quatre fromage),
the others had pasta . . . carbonara and I’m not sure what else.
Our waiter was an absolutely adorable man of about 60; he kindly took a photo of us . . . with EACH camera! Très adorable.
AND when I talked about the food I forgot to mention a couple of things.
1) Madame prepared a lentil dish one evening with sausages. It was very good. Apparently it’s a native dish where her parents live.
2) Last Friday I joined 3 other ladies for Gambas à GoGo.
Essentially it’s a heaping mess of all the shrimp you can eat with pommes frites (very good Dan, but I’ve yet to go to kebab place and eat frites . . . I think that’s where they also rock.)
The restaurant was an Irish Pub the German gal who now lives in Ireland with her Irish husband had chosen. The restaurant portion was in the basement. It was a really cool cave with stone archways with boxing paraphernalia hanging all over the place. We essentially closed the place down. Fortunately there was no school the next day . . .
And then I’ve searched out music . . . I had actually thought today as I was walking to school that today’s subject line would read “la musique” and Char had even put in such a request . . . alors, that will have to wait for a later date.

And another petit sujet is le sculpture . . .
To close I have BIG news to give . . . I’ve been speaking a bit more, well . . . I think I’ve been using a bit more complicated sentence structure AND I did better on the test today . . . . so . . . Marion has invited me to join the more advanced class next week ! ! ! I could sense a great deal of hesitation on her part. She said if it was just conversation, no problem, but she’s worried that they may speak too quickly for me to understand. Alors, I told her, “Je voudrais essayer.” So, try I will!! I think most of you know that I like a challenge now and then . . . and they made it clear that if I’m completely lost, I can always return to Jean-Laurent’s class. So, I shall give it all I’ve got and see where I land. Personally, I think it will do me good to be around people who speak fast (with a teacher in the room, the only catch is that the Swiss can be very hard to understand with their accent). I told Tony last night that the biggest problem I’ve had is understanding the French when they’re together because they talk SO VERY quickly. One-on-one isn’t so bad because they hear right off that I’m an Anglophile, and they then speak more clearly and slowly . . . Alors, je vais voir!
So, now I shall venture forth into the POURING rain!! and work my way back home. On my way to this very chic café (which I had noticed on other promenades) I meandered past some very cool art galleries and shops.  BJ, I got a couple of cards for you . . .
These shoes move . . . or talk, if you will !
These shoes fly . . . more or less !
 And these shoes are a little stuck in a rut . . .
AND the agenda for tonight is BLUES at a club qui s’appelle L’Absinthe. Tony recommends I order an absinthe!
 They were good; the girl was especially good !
Last night was BACH! And last week was bluegrass! So you see, there’s quite a bit on the agenda for “la musique à Lyon.”
Un bon weekend! Have a blast at the yacht club opening Tones! I look forward to being able to check out some photos next week!
So, for now, au revior mes amies!!!
Susan

A few observations . . .

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date:  Mon, Feb 2, 2009

subject:  a few observations . . . .
 
Bonjour Tous!
 
I hope you are all well and enjoying the wonderful weather on Kauai, in NYC, Tennessee et other parts unknown!
 
It’s been a great week here à Lyon.
 
First of all, I thought I’d start off with some observations:
 
1)  There is a LOT of dog poop on the roads and sidewalks of Lyon. I will be so bold as to wager that there is a LOT of dog poop on the sidewalks all over France! You really have to pay attention when you walk here. ‘Nuff said.
 
2)  There are a LOT of dogs en France. They are really sweet. Like the one I petted yesterday when I went to a flea market (les puces) avec Madame. I splurged and spent dix euros (about 13 dollars now, the exchange rate is getting much better!) on an old, rusty trivet. I thought it’d fit right in at our house when we entertain friends . . .

and it does !

3)  There are a lot of manifestions in France. Last week there was a large grève pour l’écoles. Seems Nicholas Skar . . . what’s his name wants to change the system of the schools and the entire population is in an uproar about it. Over 30,000 people marched this past Thursday, ma hôtess included. The schools were closed that day as well as the Greco-Roman musée which we WERE going to visit on Thursday.
 
 
 
the Théâtres Romains de Fourvière 
(window in back is where the museum is)
 
 Some of the other “kids.” 
Wearing black was definitely “in.” I wasn’t “in.”

We walked into the old city instead and had a drink. Some had orange juice, some hot chocolate, some café; moi, I had a beer.

 
Angelica & Ricardo

The first Saturday I was here I also witnessed 2 LARGE manifestations in Bellecour–THE largest plaza in Europe the Lyonais say.

Vous êtes ici. 
You are here.
 
You can read up more on it at wikipedia.
There was also a smaller one on the adjoining street, rue de la république.

a. smaller one was about the abundance of paper used for making print ads
 
There was a man covered in paper and with a box torso and mask. There were lots of people tossing around printed ads (magazines, flyers, brochures, etc.). There was even a camera man who looked a LOT like Tony (from the back and side of the camera, that is) and a sound person who looked NOTHING like me.
 

I enjoyed watching it all. I sent Nancy the little piece of paper THEY were passing out protesting the abundance of such paper things.

b.  a march for the aforementioned school topic
 
When Madame and a fellow friend told me about the changes N.S. wants to make (over wine of course, it was in the evening on a Friday, I think) they became quite adamant that their school system right now is wonderful, it’s very democratic and EVERYONE can get a good education. According to them, the changes which N.S. wants to make (I think already HAS put into place, but don’t quote me, remember, I’m here to learn the language . . . : ) would/will make the school system more like the one in the U.S. where only the rich really have a chance for a very good education . . . .
 
 
Schools are not a business. 
Education is not merchandise!
 
Before you all get in an uproar and want to jump on me, please remember the saying, “Don’t shoot the messenger.” I’m just passing on what I observed . . .
 
c. a protest over the Israeli agression in Palenstine
 
Boy, did I ever get a few cool shots. It was quite fascinating because each spokesperson was speaking very slowly and clearly (on a raised platform with a PA system) so I could actually understand. It really was interesting until they started chanting “Assasinate Israel!!!” That gave me a real pit in my stomach and it was then time to move on.

Why in the world people the world over can’t just chant “Love your neighbor!”, or “Let’s all be friends!”, or “Come to my house for a cup of tea and some pleasant conversation whenever you have a free moment . . .”    ????

 

Later in the evening when I was up on the top of the colline where le fourvière is, I could still hear the chanting. It wasn’t until then that I thought to record a little video. That’s when they stopped chanting and talking. Maybe there’s a message there. Exactly that is what does not need to be passed on and shared with others. It just keeps the cycle going . . . just my observations.

 
That’s Bellecour below where you see the Ferris wheel.
 
4) Nearly every host here is a hostess, divorced and with a grown child or two. 
Either they’re lonely or they need to raise some extra cash quick–or both.

5) This is a correction really, but here goes:
 
faire DU ski
 
faire DU vélo (I cheated and corrected it when I posted that letter on my glob.)
 
faire de la voile, etc . . . I was incorrect last week . . . je suis très, très désolée!!
 
6) I’m improving at the pace of a snail.  But I AM improving.
 
Last night la Madame said something to the effect (and with a VERY shocked look on her face, I MUST add!) “Everything you’ve just said was absolutely correct! Each sentence!”
 
I thought it best then to simply reply with a grunt. No need in spoiling my record, plus . . . that means . . . well, you can figure it out for yourself. But, being the optimist that I am, I choose to reach for the positive. Yahoo! I said a few things correctly! Yahoo!!!!

 
7) A person doesn’t do well when they’re tired.
 
Each Friday we have a little test. And I do mean little. It’s nothing serious. It’s for the teacher to have an idea of how we’re doing and for ourselves too to have an idea of whether or not we’re retaining what we do in class. I did just fine on the first two tests.  But this past Saturday I completely (and I do mean completely!) forgot some stuff that’s really very simple. So this little optimist (who when she sees horse poop asks her parents, “Where’s the horse I’m getting for my birthday?”) figures that NOW surely I won’t forget the simple thing I thought before. AND it was after this that I could feel myself improving a bit. I think the old adage of take a few steps forward, a few back, and then even more forward may be true.
 
J’espère.

8) They don’t always have popcorn at movies here.
 
I saw Che #1 last week and then Che #2 this past weekend at a large theatre close to the school (on rue grolèe for the inquisitive) where NO popcorn or anything else is sold.  It cost seven euros fifty each time. When I went to see Slumdog Millionaire at the only cinéma which showed the original version (in Indian and a petite peu en l’anglais) with French sous titres; it cost nine euros fifty (almost 2.75 dollars more) and they DID sell popcorn and candy. (This one was on cours Vitton, which is also cours Franklin Roosevelt.) What this signifies, I have no idea. Just passing on a few observations.

On a side note, when I arrived at the cinéma there had just been an accident in the middle of the road, directly in front of the film house. I don’t know what happened but a man and a woman who were riding on the same scooter somehow crashed. The bright orange scooter was on its side. There were fragments of the red brake light scattered to the opposite side of the bike. The man was up walking around. He was wearing black leather with a bright orange pulli underneath (like the one my Dad wore and that I now have). The woman was NOT moving except for a trembling hand and arm. It looked like she too was wearing an orange pulli underneath her black jacket. Her elegantly clad feet (in black leather boots with a very high stiletto heel) did NOT move until the paramedic moved it.
 
Why do I tell you this in such colorful detail?  So you can SEE her AND him and pray for them both. I couldn’t help but think that she had had some type of injury to the brain . . . again, ’nuff said.
 
May the wonderful prayer chain begin . . . .

 

Okay, after that, I’m not quite sure what to write, so I think I’ll stop.
 
Love to you ALL and thanks for being the kind of friends that I know I can send a prayer request to, and immediately you’re already praying . . .
 
Merci beaucoup.
 
until next time,
 
Susan
 
or Suzanne en France
 
p.s. a friend at school sent this . . . .

I think you might enjoy watching this video too. ciao
 
salut Susan,
 
je crois que tu vas aimer ce video.
 
Ricardo

 
 
a video Ricardo shared with me